Torrisi Italian Specialties

This is the third post in the Eating the Big Apple series. Other posts include Soba Koh and Sylvia's Restaurant (Gospel Brunch).

The Torrisi chefs and co-owners Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi have received a ton of press lately. Food and Wine Magazine recently crowned them "Best New Chef" for 2012 and New York Magazine called their restaurant "Best of New York" for 2012. Their training arises from some pretty prestigious places (Cafe Boulud, WD-50, Babbo, and Del Posto).

The restaurant's gone through several metamorphoses in the recent past. Torrisi started out as a place that served great Italian sandwiches at lunch and a fun, spontaneous, and creative $50 prix fixe dinner. No reservations were accepted, and the place was always packed with notoriously long waits. People gushed about the incredible tasting menu for such an amazing price.

That was 2010, and a lot has happened since then. They've increased the price of the 4-course tasting menu ($65 last time we went), added the ability to make reservations, increased the number of servers, and made the space a lot nicer.

Remnants of a bygone era - the sandwich menu is still posted behind the bar, even though they don't serve sandwiches here anymore

Speaking of space, the Italian sandwich shop is also gone, now situated down the street at a place called Parm. In November of 2011, Torrisi took over the space of Rocco Restaurant, a beloved, 92-year old red-sauce Italian neighborhood institution that had entertained the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Joe DiMaggio, Robert DeNiro, and Johnny Depp (there's a slightly sad tale about Rocco being forced out by an aggressive landlord, but we won't go into that here).

Before, it was virtually impossible (or at least quite painful) to land a seat to taste their creative renditions inspired by Italian food. Now, you can make a reservation during either lunch or dinner to enjoy the original 4-course tasting menu. At dinner, they've added an extravagant 20-course tasting menu for $125 which showcases them at their best (ironically, that has become the reservation that's impossible to score).


The Torrisi chefs are a bit like the soup Nazi when it comes to their menu. Essentially, you have no choice.

OK, I exaggerate slightly. You can choose the protein of your main course, but that's it. The menu changes daily, and is written on a chalkboard high above the counter. For $65 you get a four-course meal, with the "mains" being the only course with a choice. The waiter told us that most couples get one of each so they can try the entire menu.

Sounded reasonable to us, so we went ahead and did just as he recommended.


Fresh mozzarella is made to order right at the counter. Because there were not that many guests at the restaurant that day during lunch (I think we counted 3 tables), the chef allowed us to step up to the bar/counter and watch him make it.

We start with mozzarella curds, which are usually formed by adding an acid (like citric acid) and rennet to milk and then filtering the mixture. The curds here are purchased from an outside vendor. 

"We go through so much of the cheese, if we made our own curds, you won't even be able to imagine how much milk we'd have to go through."

Add hot water to the curds, and then just mix it (but not too much!). In order to keep the cheese nice and tender, don't handle it too much. Simply make a nice, round ball, and serve!

The first course, called "Warm Mozzarella DaVero" consists of the mozzarella ball served in extra virgin olive oil and sea salt along with some simple garlic toasts.

The cheese is fantastic. It is still warm (after all, we had watched it being made just moments before), very soft, yet has a definite chewy, almost squeaky, substance to it. The extra virgin olive oil and sea salt bring out the subtle yet defined flavors of the mozzarella itself.

It was absolute perfect.

"English Peas"
The next course is clearly a nod to the season (yes, I went in the springtime), when fresh peas are all over the place. English peas, sugar snap peas, and pea tendrils all come together into a lovely, crispy salad. I love the crunch provided by the homemade potato chips as well as the decadent creamy burrata(?) cheese that accompanies it.

"Whipped Char, Smoked Cucumber" is next, served alongside a "Fresh Bagel". This is clearly a playful twist on an old, New York classic - Bagel and Lox. In this case, the smoked fish has become whipped arctic char , which is served with trout roe, creme fraiche, and smoked olive oil.

The mini "Everything" bagels are cute and fun to eat.

"Duck Crepe, Plum Sauce" the next course, reminds me more of a fusion between French food and Chinese food than anything Italian. A duck egg (no flour) crepe wraps around duck leg confit, pickled onions, mint, and plum sauce. I find this course to be a little less memorable. Everything is executed well, but I do not find the flavors to be particularly exciting (duck's also not my favorite meat, so perhaps I'm a bit biased?)

The "Pasta with Rings, Calamari, and Pepperoni", on the other hand, is fantastic. We love the play on the rings theme. You almost can't tell the calamari apart from the pasta because they are virtually the same size and shape. The pepperoni-infused sauce is intensely rich and flavorful. Not only does it have the spicy, smoky depth from the pepperoni, it also posseses a deep, sweet richness from the pine nuts, red peppers, and mussel stock used to make the sauce. The killer combination of ingredients results in an overall astounding sauce.

"Island Duck, Mulberry Mustard"
Bryan loves duck, and he think this next course is fantastic. The meat is soft and tender, cooked so perfectly you wonder whether they used a sous vide machine. Bryan especially likes the intense mustard flavor, which gives a bright pop everytime he bites into one of those mustard seeds.

"Black Bass Marsala, Button"
Though the dish seems simply prepared, this steamed black bass is melt-in-your-mouth soft and infused with a lovely, rich flavor from the Marsala wine. I am surprised that it is not too sweet (perhaps they use much higher quality Marsala wine than I do!). and instead is deeply rich and satisfying.

And don't you love the elegant way in which they have presented the button mushrooms? I don't think I've ever seen button mushrooms look so sophisticated!

We're given a simple lemon-ginger Italian ice palate cleanser to prepare us for dessert.

Cannoli made from Italian pizzelles wrapped around ricotta cheese and candied oranges, brightly colored Italian rainbow cookies (made with lots and lots of almond essence), chocolate mint truffles, a dense pistachio lemon cake, and a nut-roll of sorts

Except for ricotta-inspired desserts (think cannoli and ricotta pie) and coffee-inspired one (e.g. tiramisu), I've never been a huge fan of Italian desserts. I don't love anise (common in a lot of their desserts), and I've always found Italian cookies to be a bit dry.

The "House Pastries" are delicate and pretty, but I don't really love any of them. I find many to be too sweet or just infused with flavor of which I am not a big fan.

Overall, however, we had a great time at Torrisi Italian Specialties. The food is excellent and there's no question that chefs Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi are extremely talented. By only tasting the 4-course, I felt like we only got a glimpse of their true talent. Perhaps the only way to really experience them at their best is to try the $125 twenty-course tasting.

Sometimes I do wish the menu weren't so constricting, though. In my case, I loved the mozzarella and calamari pasta so much that I wish I could sit at the bar and just order those two things. Heck, I'd even consider ordering two mozzarella balls.

But it doesn't work like that.

And frankly, there's enough demand for Torrisi's food, the chefs can basically do whatever they want and people will come. 

Me included.


Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry St.
New York, NY

Sylvia's Restaurant

This is the second post in the Eating the Big Apple series. Other posts include Soba Koh.

Update: Rest in Peace Sylvia Wood, the founder of this restaurant, who passed away Thursday, July 19, 2012. 

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For some reason, New Yorkers are obsessed about brunch.

Perhaps it's the opportunity to slow down from the busyness of the crazy work week; or maybe it's the availability of so many fantastic places at which to enjoy this beloved meal.

Whatever the reason, the city is abuzz with brunch seekers every Sunday morning. Try to get into some of the popular brunch spots around town, and you'll easily find yourself waiting in line, sometimes for well over an hour, for a coveted seat.

In the middle of all these different brunch options, there's a unique sub-genre that hails from another region and another time. It's the Sunday gospel brunch in New York - Harlem specifically. Chow down on delicious Southern dishes in rooms that feel like an old Southern house while listening to (and even participating in) a fun afternoon of live gospel music.

Welcome to Sylvia's in Harlem, one of the most famous gospel brunch institutions in New York. Sylvia's has been around since 1962, serving up classic hearty Southern fare such as chicken & waffles, collard greens, and fried catfish.

One wall is covered with pictures of famous people who have dined at the restaurant. Dare show up after 12pm and you're guaranteed to wait at least an hour before you'll be seated.

We show up around 11:15 AM as a party of eight and (thankfully) we are seated immediately.

We've heard incredible things about the famous cornbread at Sylvia's. One guy who we'd talked to the day before told us we absolutely had to try the cornbread. In his mind, it was the best cornbread he'd ever eaten.

Within moments, we see freshly baked biscuits appear at our table.

Where's the cornbread? Can we please have some cornbread?

"I'm really sorry, but the cornbread is not ready yet. It will be at least another hour before it is ready."

Though the biscuits are delicious, we can't help but wonder about the cornbread.

The menu is simple and reasonably priced. Most breakfast-like entrees are under $20, with just a few grilled meat dishes costing between $20 and $25. Most people opt for the $20 entree, which includes a generous piece of meat plus two sides.

Fried chicken is definitely popular. Guests enjoy both the "Southern Style Fried Chicken" and the "Smothered Chicken" (chicken "smothered" in gravy). They're both great and you can't go wrong with either.

You have your choice of two sides, and various guests order different things, such as pickled beets, candied yams, baked mac & cheese, and collard greens.
The gospel breakfast includes a drink (anything from coffee to a Bloody Mary or a mimosa!). If you want the Bloody Mary or mimosa, make sure to order that first and indicate that you want it as part of the brunch. Otherwise, if you order, say, a coffee or something right when you sit down, then you'll have to pay full price for the mimosa if you want it later. [Trust me, it makes much more sense to get the mimosa or Bloody Mary for "free" and then pay for the cheaper coffee or iced tea later].

If you're not in the mood for fried chicken, you can always get the fried catfish (like me!), which is also simple but quite tasty.

Halfway through our meal, we inquire again about the cornbread. Oddly, the projected time has moved forward, and now they are telling us that cornbread won't be ready until at least 1:30PM.

We look at our watches and realize that's still more than an hour away. Perhaps we won't be able to try the cornbread this time.

Thankfully, there are other things to distract us. After all, coming to Sylvia's isn't just about the food. In fact, the most fun and unique part of this gospel brunch is the live gospel music that they have every week. Brunch is from 11AM - 2PM while live gospel music goes on from 12:30 PM - 4 PM.

Near the end of our meal, husband-and-wife duo Ruth and Clay Simpson begin to perform. Clay plays keyboard in the back while Ruth walks around, room by room, singing and greeting all the visitors. She sings many familiar gospel tunes.

"This little light of mine, I'm gonna let it shine. . . "

The energy is infectious, and at times an entire side of a room starts clapping along (and even singing!) with one of her lively, gospel songs.

There are many non-local visitors in the room, and she greets them all, table by table.

"Boston is in the house! Blessed be the Lord. Let's hear it for Boston! Boston is in the house!"

"I'm gonna let it shine . . ."

"Spain is in the house! Let's hear it for my friends who flew all the way from Spain! Spain is in the HOUSE!"

And on and on. The geographical diversity of diners who come gather at this place is astounding.

And then, we inquire, one last time, about the cornbread.

The server feels sorry for us at this point. "I'll see what I can do, OK?"

Before you know it, a basket of warm, incredibly moist cornbread blocks arrives at our table.

It pays to be persistent, I guess. The cornbread turns out to be awesome. Moist, slightly sweet, and melt-in-your-mouth buttery. It was totally worth the wait. 

On our way out we gasp at the crazy crowd that has formed in the foyer. The wait is definitely over an hour by this point, and we are just relieved that we arrived just before the rush.

It was a fun morning, and the gospel songs really put me in a good mood.

Is it the best Southern food I've ever had? Tough to say - but maybe not necessarily. I will say it's one of the most authentic experiences I've had (outside of the actual South), and the whole meal is really fun. The food's still good, and overall I still highly recommend it. If nothing else, come for the spirited gospel music and the awesome cornbread.

Just make sure to come before noon if you can.

"Let it shine, let it shine, let it shine."

Sylvia's
328 Lenox Ave
 New York, NY 10027

Soba Koh

This is the first post in the Eating the Big Apple series.

I seriously don't know why there isn't an obsession about really, really good soba.

Ramen has already taken this nation by the storm. It's how David Chang made a name for himself. Lines at Ippudo in New York are notoriously long, and can we even count the number of people desperately trying to get into Guchi's Midnight Ramen here in Boston?

Soba seems to be a quieter affair. For most people (me included), it is a humble noodle that's served on the side, almost like an afterthought. It may play second fiddle to fried tempura, or could be tossed together with a bunch of other flavorful ingredients. Almost never is it allowed to shine on its own as the main centerpiece.

In fact, I don't think Boston has a single restaurant that makes its own soba. At most, soba is served as  a token noodle dish as part of a menu predominantly filled with fusion sushi rolls, shrimp tempura, and salmon teriyaki.

This is why I had to go to New York to seek out this rare specialty.

Welcome to Soba Koh in the East Village.

Soba Koh is really unique because it specializes exclusively in soba. The menu largely comprises various soba offerings, divided up between "cold noodle" and "hot noodle" dishes. There are also other fun side dishes, such as crab chawan mushi, edamame, and tempura. By and large, however, a majority of the dishes incorporate buckwheat flour in one form or another.

A noodle master makes soba (by hand!) from organic buckwheat flour several times a day. If you're lucky, you just may catch him in the window cutting perfect strands of soba using his crazy huge soba cutting knife.

Bryan and I were lucky enough to arrive just as he was beginning to cut these gorgeous noodles. I was so excited I took a short video of him at his craft.

Once he finished making the noodles, we reluctantly went back to our seats and started to peruse the menu.

I loved the clean, bright, and open space. It felt airy, modern, yet comfortable at the same time.

The menu was full of fun and interesting soba-themed dishes that I had never seen before, so of course I had to try as many as I could (and we still didn't get to try them all!).

Agedashi Sobagaki (fried soba "gnocchi") - a deep fried ball made with soba flour, stuffed with ground chicken, and served in a dashi-based broth (topped with shredded daikon - the type you see served with tempura), was interesting more in from an intellectual curiosity perspective than from an actual "taste" point of view.

We found it a bit starchy and bland, though it was certainly unique and not something we'd ever tried before. If you're limited on stomach space, however, I'd skip this. It was very dense and heavy, and we were about half full before we even got started on the good stuff.

Similarly, fried soba noodles (Age Soba) were delicate, crunchy, and fun to eat, but didn't offer anything particularly creative or "wow" in terms of flavor. The only other soba-themed appetizer that we did not have a chance to try was the Soba Risotto, a fascinating dish that consisted of crab, shiitake, ginkgo nuts and mitsuba.

uni ikura soba

The soba, on the other hand, was hands-down the best soba we'd ever had. Granted, we'd never had freshly-made soba before (yes, I know, we were too busy eating sushi during our trips to Japan). The texture was thick, chewy, and had a lovely, toothsome bite to it. It was made out of some special buckwheat from Canada (we paid an extra $3 for the option), which had an even deeper and richer "buckwheat" flavor.

Of course the toppings on our Uni Ikura Soba ($18) were hard to beat. Uni (sea urchin), ikura (salmon roe), and shredded shiso leaves were served with a bit of wasabi and nori (dried seaweed). That's a winning combination, and this was no exception. I loved how the creamy richness of the uni, briny "pop" of the ikura, and sweet, almost "minty" notes of the shiso came together so perfectly.

The noodles were served with a simple, cold soy-based dipping sauce, a perfect agent to bind everything together. Keeping the liquid separate until the last possible moment allowed the texture of the noodles to shine.

For the sake of variety, we also ordered a "hot noodle": Ebi Tempura Soba with shrimp and vegetable tempura on the side. The flavors were solid and the tempura was quite expertly fried. However, the hot soup made the soba just a tad softer than the cold version had been. It was harder to appreciate the incredible texture of the fresh soba quite as much when it was in this slightly "soggier" state. Though it was still very, very good, I could tell it wasn't quite the same.

Overall, however, we had a fantastic time there.

According to Guchi (none other than the Midnight Ramen guy), Soba Koh is a favorite amongst those in the restaurant industry. Unlike the ramen places in the city, this place has yet to be discovered (and thus not yet mobbed) by the noodle-craving masses.

However, those in-the-know come often to enjoy the delectable handmade offerings, and Guchi's no exception. He loves going there as well (and he's a noodle expert!).

I would highly recommend coming here. The ambiance is pleasant, the prices are reasonable ($8 to $18 for soba), and the food is fantastic. You get to sample something that's pretty hard to find on this side of the ocean. Seriously, how often does one get access to fresh, homemade soba in the States? Even if you wanted to make your own soba, how hard would it be to land one of those crazy soba cutting knives?

We absolutely loved the fresh soba, and I'd argue it's worth splurging the $3 to get the special buckwheat if it's available. Even if not, I'm sure the normal handmade soba will far surpass any dried kind you've ever had.

Soba Koh
309 E 5th St
New York, NY 10003

Neptune Oyster's Lobster Caprese Salad

You know those people who always tend to order the same thing no matter where they go?

Unadventurous? Predictable? Boring?

That's me when it comes to caprese salads.

I'm not sure why, but I love, love, love that magical combination of a deliciously ripe tomato, a beautiful, creamy slice of mozzarella (or any of its lovely cousins, hello burrata!), and really fresh basil. Top that with some extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, and I'm set. Don't even add balsamic vinegar - it's really not necessary.

I have such a hard time resisting caprese salads on menus, regardless of whether it's in salad form or sandwich form. I become that boring eater, always ordering the same thing.

A couple weeks ago, I received an intriguing invitation to a tasting and recipe demonstration. We would learn how to make Neptune Oyster's Lobster Caprese Salad from Michael Serpa (executive chef). We would also be tasting several different kinds of tomatoes courtesy of Backyard Farms tomatoes (the ones used at Neptune Oyster).

My favorite salad? Made by the chef of one of my favorite restaurants in Boston?

It wasn't hard to decide.
We started out the evening by learning a bit about Backyard Farms and their tomatoes. Backyard Farms grows their tomatoes year round in greenhouses in Maine. They decided to begin their business to address the issue they saw with supermarket tomatoes: bland, tasteless, and not really ripe when picked.

They set up shop in Madison, Maine, a small town full of "hardworking people who just needed jobs." Instead of hiring seasonal migrant workers, Backyard Farms hires full time employees as farmers. These farmers receive benefits, are given responsibility for their own "plot" (resulting in more accountability/ownership and thus better tomatoes overall), and tend to stay with the company for years.

Their philosophy is to keep the tomatoes on the vines as long as possible. They can achieve this because they do not ship to far away places. Their rule? The destination must be less than a day's drive away (about 10 hours).  Most of their tomatoes are sold in Maine, New York, and Boston (with some making it as far south as Maryland). This allows them to wait until the last possible moment before hand-picking the vine-ripen tomatoes, which arrive at the supermarket the following day.

I agree their tomatoes taste a lot better than normal supermarket tomatoes (though still not quite as good as a real, summer tomato in August). In fact, coincidentally, I had independently purchased some Backyard Farms tomatoes myself just a few days prior to learning about this event. I had chosen them because they smelled the nicest - they had that sweet, fragrant "tomato" smell that reminded me of summer. They are also convenient because you can find them at both upscale markets and your standard supermarkets (e.g., Shaw's, Hannaford's, Harvest COOP, and Whole Foods).

We learned a lot of interesting tomato facts.

1. Never Refrigerate Tomatoes
Keeping tomatoes at temperatures below about 50 °F will cause the sugars in the tomatoes to turn to starch. What results is a mealy and not-sweet tomato.

2. Try to avoid the green center - it's bitter

The greenish colored center where the stem attaches to the tomato is actually quite bitter. Ideally, cut around it and don't serve it to your guests.

3. On a Vine, Eat Tomatoes from "Closest" to "Furthest" from Cut Vine

 On a vine, the tomato closest to the part of the vine which was cut off from the main stem is called the "King Tomato." This tomato ripens first, and therefore should be eaten first. In general, the tomatoes closest to the cut vine ripen first while the one furthest from the cut vine ("Tail Tomato") ripens last. You can also feel the tomatoes to confirm this. I could definitely tell that the one closest to the cut vine was softer and more ripe than the last one.

4. Cut Tomatoes with a Serrated Knife to Avoid Bruising Them
I've always noticed that tomatoes (and peppers!) are among the hardest things in life to slice - you really need a super sharp knife. Although I have finally acquired some crazy sharp knives, I've found that if my knives are not super sharpened, it's still sometimes a challenge to cut tomatoes well. Using a serrated knife (even an average one), makes this job so much easier.

"Cooking" Demonstration by Michael Serpa from Neptune Oyster
For the second part of the evening, Michael Serpa from Neptune Oyster demonstrated to us how to make Lobster Caprese, a summer offering at Neptune Oyster.

The "recipe" is surprisingly easy. I guess when the ingredients are high quality, you don't need to mess with it too much. I'm sure the devil is in the details of execution, and Michael Serpa did it flawlessly.

Toss lobster pieces with some extra virgin olive oil, freshly squeezed lemon juice, shallots, chives, salt, and pepper. Add in basil, followed by tomatoes, and then finally, mozzarella.

Mix it all together - ideally by hand! For plating, he spreads some basil pesto on the bottom of a plate, adds a few pieces of grilled toast, and then layers everything else on top.

So simple, yet fantastic. I can attest that it was very, very good.

Alas, Chef Serpa did not measure anything (he just kind of "knew" how much stuff to add by eyeballing it), and thus I can't give you an exact recipe with measurements. Seriously, though, you probably can't go wrong.

White Anchovy Salad
Chef Serpa also made a second salad using Backyard Farms cocktail tomatoes. The cocktail tomatoes are much smaller, and therefore much sweeter. Smaller tomatoes tend to have much more sugar content (case in point: have you ever tasted a grape tomato? Yum).

This simple salad had a Mediterranean bent, consisting of Spanish white anchovies, olive tapenade,  roasted red peppers, and cocktail tomatoes served with a generous blend of salad greens consisting of French breakfast radishes, arugula, celery leaves, and parsley.

This dish is not available at Neptune Oyster, and instead was designed specifically by Chef Sherpa for Backyard Farms (recipe provided below).

Both were fantastic, although my inner caprese-obsessed mind still loved the lobster caprese more (which is great because I can always go back to Neptune Oyster, at least during the summertime, and order it).

Backyard Farms sent us all home with a cool gift pack that included all three types of tomatoes that they sell: the beefsteak, tomatoes on the vine, and cocktail tomatoes. We also got a nifty serrated "tomato knife", sea salt from Maine, a bottle of Filippo Berio olive oil, and a cute tomato cutting board!

It was definitely fun, and I learned a lot about tomatoes!


White Anchovy Salad with Summer Tomatoes
Michael Serpa of Neptune Oyster
Serves 4-6

Ingredients
20 Spanish white anchovies (Boquerones)
1 box cocktail Backyard Farms tomatoes, quartered
2 red bell peppers
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch basil
1 bunch flat parsley
1 lemon
30 black Nicoise olives, pitted, finely chopped
1 French baguette, sliced lengthwise
5 French breakfast radishes, thinly sliced
1 small white onion, thinly sliced
1 cup baby arugula
1 bunch of celery, light green inner leaves
Sea salt and cracked pepper to taste

Directions

1. Roast peppers until they blister. Put in bowl, wrap with plastic and set aside. Slice baguette lengthwise and rub with 1 tbsp olive oil. Toast in 375 ° F oven until golden.

2. Make dressing with the remaining olive oil, vinegar and lemon juice.

3. Peel roasted peppers, removing seeds and skin, and slice into strips. Season with salt and basil, mix together.

4. Spread olives onto the warm baguette slices.

5. In a separate bowl, toss together arugula, onion, radishes, celery leaves, and parsley. Add dressing, salt and pepper. Season tomatoes with salt and arrange on the olive-spread bread with pepper slices and anchovies. Add salad on top, and garnish with cracked pepper.

Disclaimer - I did not pay to attend this event. All opinions in this post are my own.