Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Sous Vide Cooking

Parts of this post have been published before in my Culinary Tour Around the World - Sous Vide style post. However, I thought it would be useful to write a separate post dedicated to the general art of sous vide, sort of as a reference point. Enjoy!
Challenge3_ButterPoachedLobster
Although cooking in a water bath has been a technique that’s been around since medieval times, it wasn’t until the 1970’s that sous vide, a method of cooking food under vacuum in precisely temperature-controlled water baths, was invented in France. It would not be adopted in the US until 2000, when Daniel Boulud learned this fascinating technique from French chef Gerard Bertholon.

With the recent popularity of food shows and celebrity chefs, this method has taken the cooking world by a storm. In fact, many fine dining establishments across America now use this technique.

Despite its popularity in restaurants, it has not really caught on at home. A quick search of Amazon.com only yielded a handful of books about sous vide cooking at home, many of which published within the last two years.

"Sous vide" literally means "under vacuum" in French. Sort of a misnomer, this method of cooking actually involves two parts. Food is first sealed under vacuum in a plastic bag and then cooked in a water bath set at a very precise temperature.
FoodSaver Salmon
Sous vide cooking has a lot of interesting benefits. First, because you can precisely control the temperature of your water bath, you won't overcook your food. This is great for restaurant cooks who can't always predict exactly when something needs to be served. You can keep a steak at 130° F (medium rare) for hours in that water bath and take it out to sear just moments before the guests arrive.
 
Second, this technique allows you to obtain textures of food you could not obtain with traditional cooking. I'll go into this more later, but a sous vide egg has an beautiful velvety creamy texture that is difficult to obtain with traditional methods. Likewise, you can cook shortribs at a low temperature for hours, softening it until it is melt-in-your-mouth tender yet still medium rare at the same time!

Finally, sous vide cooking, in many instances, allows you to reduce significantly the amount of cooking liquid you use. You can marinate with just a small amount marinade in the bag. Similarly, you can confit a piece of meat with just a small amount of fat, unlike the traditional method where you needed to submerge the entire piece of meat in a pot of melted fat.

You can rig your own sous-vide system with a magic cookerbeer cooler, or a cast iron pot. I've tried the magic cooker method, with great success. Alternatively, if you're not the tinkering type, you can use a professional unit, such as the SousVide Supreme
Sous Vide Supreme
I've played around with sous vide quite a bit on this site, so I thought it was time to compile them all in once place. I've done everything from hacking my own sous vide system out of a Chinese magic cooker to cooking an entire luxury meal, complete with Thomas Keller and David Chang recipes, out of sous vide.

My general thoughts?
In general, sous vide is a great fool proof method for cooking meat in a way that does not overcook it. My steaks have come out perfectly each time, and I honestly don't use any other method anymore, not even my previously dearly beloved oven to pan sear method.

Scallops come out great via sous vide, and salmon is delicious as well. We thought chicken was pretty good too, although Bryan doesn't think it's any better than a really good poached chicken. Octopus cooked sous vide is velvety and smooth - a far cry from its rubbery beginnings. Lobster is good cooked sous vide, although I don't think I necessarily thought it was better than normal steamed or boiled lobsters.

Vegetables, such as potatoes, taste fine cooked sous vide but I really didn't notice that much of a difference from normal cooking. I think in these cases it's just easier and more convenient for restaurants to cook vegetables sous vide. For the home cook, I don't think it makes a big difference.
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The Biggest Disadvantages?
Space and time are the biggest disadvantages of sous vide cooking. Space because all these extra gadgets really take up a lot of space! Between the Sousvide Supreme's large footprint and the wide Foodsaver, I hardly have any space left to chop meat and vegetables!

Secondly, most things take much longer using the sous vide technique. I cook my steaks for at least 45 minutes, and some things could take even longer. It takes a lot less time to just throw a steak on a grill. It's your call whether you have the time on a weeknight to cook using this method.

Furthermore, at home you have to cook everything serially. Unlike in a restaurant, where there may be various different water baths going at different precise temperatures, I only have one machine. If you're cooking a meal that contains multiple sous vide components, often they need to be cooked at a different temperatures.

Although there may not be much active work that needs to be done, you need to be VERY WELL ORGANIZED and plan ahead in order to pull off such a multi-course meal. Otherwise, you very well may run out of time!
Sous vide Steak http://www.tinyurbankitchen.com/2010/06/sous-vide-steak.html
Safety
The US food code recommends that raw or unpasteurized food be held at temperature between 41°F (5°C) and 130°F (54.4°C) for a maximum of four hours. Anything longer than that will give harmful pathogens a chance to multiply to possibly dangerous levels.

On top of that, one particular hazard that relates specifically to sous-vide cooking are bacteria that can proliferate in anaerobic (oxygen-free) environments. Salmonella, Clostridium botulinum, E. coli, and Listeria can multiply to dangerous levels in the anaerobic conditions of a vacuum pack when held at temperatures in the "danger zone" (40°F (4.4°C) and 140°F (60°C).

What's the practical application of this? Be VERY CAREFUL when handling raw foods that will be cooked sous-vide. Basically, treat the food as you would any raw meat product. Make sure you purchase very fresh meat, and keep meat refrigerated until just before cooking. Similarly, if you plan on storing sous-vide cooked food after cooking, cool the cooked meat immediately in an ice bath to bring the temperature down below the danger zone as quickly as possible. Finally, don't cook meats at temperatures in the "danger zone" for more than four hours.
FoodbuzzSept2424

Sous Vide Posts

BASIC
Sous vide Steak
Sous vide Chicken
Sous vide Scallops
Sous vide Salmon
Sous vide Octopus
Sous vide Lobster

FANCIER
Duck leg confit, Pomme Sarladaise, Fried Hen Egg, and Frisee Salad (Thomas Keller)
Confit of Liberty Pekin Duck Leg (Thomas Keller)
Duck Fat Fried Potatoes (Pommes Sarladaise(Thomas Keller)
48 hour Short Ribs with Dashi Braised Daikon (David Chang)
Spaghetti Carbonara with Sous Vide Egg (Inspired by Marcella Hazan)

EQUIPMENT
Sous vide cooking uses up a lot of gadgets, counter space, and money! Here's my set up in my kitchen:



I personally use the larger SousVide Supreme (10 L), which is great for entertaining since it can hold a lot of things in one go. On the other hand, it takes up quite a bit of counter space, which isn't so tiny kitchen friendly.


At the time I got my Sous Vide supreme, the smaller, cuter, (cheaper!) SousVide Supreme Demi wasn't available yet. Had it been available, I would have considered it. Currently, I sometimes find it a pain to heat up so much water just to cook one piece of meat. A smaller Demi, even though it doesn't hold as much, would work much better for small kitchen folks like me who are usually cooking for just 2 people. It comes in all sorts of colors, like blackblue, and red (my favorite!).

For vacuum sealers, I have a version of the above pictured FoodSaver, which I bought at Costco (it probably has a slightly different model number at Costco). You can buy the bags either online or at Costco as well.

Once you have the machine and the vaccum sealers, all you need is a recipe and some food to cook!

RESOURCES
Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide by Thomas Keller
Sous Vide for the Home Cook by Douglas Baldwin

Enjoy! I'll continue to add posts to this list as they come. :)

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Bouchon Bakery (New York)


We end our New York series with a place I always visit every time I come.

Yes, I know I probably sound like a broken record at this point, especially considering that I've already written posts about its sister bakeries, both in Napa Valley and Las Vegas. But I really really like this bakery!

And, for the sake of completeness, I really should have all three on my blog, right?

Besides, who doesn't want to look at pictures of more lovely and delicious baked goods? ;)

This Bouchon Bakery is located up on the third floor of the Time Warner Building one floor down from its famous cousin. Sound familiar? The original Bouchon Bakery is also located just down the street from its super famous cousin.

The lines are long, but manageable and move quickly!

It's hard to decide what to get, but I like their TKOs (Thomas Keller Oreos), macarons (I'm boring but vanilla is actually my favorite!), and their bouchons (mini-chocolate cork shaped brownies).

Bryan likes the nutter butter (two peanut butter cookies with peanut butter cream in the center!) , chocolate croissant (excellent chocolate inside!), and the maple bacon scone (sweet and salty - soooo good!). Though I've hardly come close to trying all that they sell, everything I've had so far has been excellent. You wouldn't expect anything less from Thomas Keller.
Time Warner Building
On the other side, you can order sandwiches and sit down for a casual lunch.

If you've already eaten (which I usually have),you can grab a baked good, a coffee, and wander the rest of the Time Warner Building. There always seems to be some sort of art exhibit going on, which is fun to explore. The last time we were there, they had a bunch of cool Dali art on display (and for sale!!! Does anyone want to spend $50k on a tree?).

I think this tree costs several hundreds of thousands of dollars . . . .

If you can't finish everything while at the bakery, you can always take some to go.

Update: A NEWEST Bouchon Bakery just opened up at One Rockefeller Plaza! Looks like my trio of Bouchon posts is not complete! I must visit the fourth one the next time I'm in New York!

Other posts in this series
Momofuku Milk Bar
Momofuku Ko
Eleven Madison Park
Marea (lunch)
Marea (dinner)
Eataly
Peter Luger Steak House
Eating in New York (again)

Bouchon Bakery
10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019
Bouchon Bakery on Urbanspoon

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Copper River Salmon (King)

Congratulations to Erin from Long Island who won the California Giant Berry Farm Giveaway. Erin said "I love to dunk strawberries in Ulker Golden (like Nutella, but better!)." Thanks all for playing!
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After seven long months of waiting, fresh Copper River salmon is finally here!

What's so special about it?
Copper river salmon come from the Copper River in Alaska, a 300 mile long 1-mile wide river in Alaska that is well known for its salmon runs. Each year 2 million salmon swim upstream (climbing over 3000 feet in elevation!) to their spawning grounds up north.

Exactly three weeks ago (on May 16, 2011 to be exact), the the 2011 Copper River Salmon season officially opened. The fisherman have been out in the city of Cordova (right near Prince William Sound on the map), catching salmon for this season's harvest. Currently, they are catching Copper River King (or Chinook), which is seriously among the most prized salmon in the world. It's known for its high oil content (yay omega-3!) and juicy rich flavor.


Map courtesy of Copper River Salmon Organization

Sustainability
All wild fish from Alaska is sustainably harvested. The Alaska Constitution mandates that fish "be utilized, developed and maintained on the sustained yield principle." 

As a result, fishing is highly regulated by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. Biologists collect data about the numbers of migrating fish throughout the season. This number governs the times and dates at which fisherman can actually fish.

The Copper River King season runs from mid-May to about late June, which means we're right in the middle of it now!

I recently had a chance to try a beautiful super fresh filet (right off the boat!) of Copper River King.

Oh My Goodness.

It was seriously the best salmon I'd ever had in my entire life.

When something is intrinsically so delicious, there's no need to add a ton of other flavors to it. I simply sprinkled on a generous amount of kosher salt and pepper.

Since my parents were in town this weekend, we ended up having a barbecue at my sister's place. She and her husband actually have a nice deck and grill, so I was able to try my hand at grilling (something I never get to do in my tiny kitchen!).

I found great grilling instructions on Cooks Illustrated, which is what I used.

After making a nice fire with charcoal (sorry, my brother-in-law took care of this part so I don't know more detailed instructions), wipe the grills with a canola oil-soaked paper towel. Grill the salmon filet skin side down until the skin starts to shrink and turn black, about 2-3 minutes. Flip over to the other side and grill until the fish is opaque throughout yet translucent at the very center.

Of course, if you like your salmon a bit more rare, you can dial down the grilling time accordingly. Note: if you're salmon filet is less than 1.5 inches thick, subtract 30 seconds off of the time cooking times.

Slice and serve!

My brother-in-law grilled some delicious onions, zucchini, and asparagus to go with this fantastic meal.

And the fish?
Like I said earlier, this is definitely the best salmon I've ever had. It was fatty, succulent, flavorful, and grilled up beautifully. The skin was crispy and I loved the way the fat melted in a way that made the filet even better. I've always loved King salmon the best, but I think this particular type of King salmon blows other ones away.

After re-grilling a bit longer

Cooked Salmon taste Good?
Although I typically love salmon raw, in this case, I think Copper River King tastes just as good cooked. The fish has so much fat content that it doesn't become dry at all even after becoming fully cooked. It's juicy, flavorful, and simply incredible.

I absolutely loved it and am totally going to go out and look for some more!

Copper River Salmon Sleuth
I have been given the awesome yet challenging task of being a Copper River salmon sleuth this summer in partnership with the Copper River Salmon Organization. I'll be covering the Boston area mostly. I'll be keeping updates on a separate Copper River salmon page (click here to see the page). You can also click the "Salmon" tab at the linkbar at the top of the blog.

Feel free to check back often! I'll also try to tweet and post updates on Facebook as I find them.

Good luck finding some!

Disclaimer:
I received the salmon filet for free from the Copper River Salmon Association.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Momofuku Milk Bar


How can one dine at Momofuku Ko for dinner and not stop by the Milk Bar afterwards?

I was stuffed. Really really stuffed. Yet Bryan somehow convinced me that we had to go, with the exact reasoning stated above.

Oh, and his other classic line he uses all the time (to get me to order a dessert):

"You SHOULD . . . for the sake of the blog . . ."

So even though I had just enjoyed a 2+ hour 10 course tasting menu (and it was already past midnight), we stopped in Momofuku Milk Bar to get some after-dinner sweets.


One of the signature soft serve flavors they serve is "cereal milk".  I sampled a taste and I loved it! It really does taste like the sweet, malty milk at the bottom of a cereal bowl. My stomach was about to explode so I didn't order a whole one, though I really wished I could have.

Little did we know at the time, but Momofuku Milk Bar had just recently obtained a full liquor license. What does that mean? Alcoholic milkshakes! Torn between the White Russian Cereal Milk and the Butterscotch Crackpot, Bryan eventually opted for the crazier sounding one - the crackpot, of course.

WOW! What an intense butterscotch flavor! The drink was rich, sweet, creamy, and just all around really good. The addition of alcohol added an element of bitterness that I actually liked.  It cut the intense sweetness of the drink. Even though I was stuffed, I definitely stole quite a bit of Bryan's drink! I also wistfully stared at the crack pie and the cool looking franken pie (pictured above), wishing I could take some with me for later. Unfortunately, the pies don't keep that well without refrigeration (we asked), so instead we just opted for some take-away cookies.
Momofuku Milk Bar Cookies
David Chang thinks underseasoning is a crime, and his philosophy shows in these intensely flavored cookies as well.  My favorite cookies (which I tried last year when Bryan brought home a dozen!) are probably the corn, chocolate-chocolate, and the cornflake-chocolate chip marshmallow.

I love corn flavored anything, and the corn flavor in this buttery corn cookie is really really strong! It's several levels stronger than ordinary cornbread. Similarly, the chocolate-chocolate cookie is intensely dark and rich - my kind of chocolate cookie!

The compost cookie (pretzels, potato chips, coffee, oats, butterscotch, chocolate chips) is the most famous, although I personally think it's a tad too sweet and prefer some of the other ones.

I would love to go back and get myself a full serving of the cereal milk soft serve - it was so good! If I'm in the mood for something rich and intense, I would consider the buttermilk crackpot milkshake, although I would definitely split it with someone.

Have you been to the Milk Bar before? Do you have any favorites?

Other posts in this series
Marea (lunch)
Marea (dinner)
Momofuku Milk Bar
207 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10003
Momofuku Bakery & Milk Bar on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Momofuku Ko


The door to one of the hottest reservations in the city is surprisingly inconspicuous.  If I had not known exactly where the restaurant was, I would have easily missed it.

The tiny sushi bar hides behind a large, glass door covered with cage-like grating that almost reminds me of a prison - except that these prison doors lock out everyone who couldn't score that elusive reservation. A tiny peach plus two miniscule letters "ko" are your only clues to the mystery behind those doors.

What's so special about this place? David Chang, the brains behind the entire Momofuku empire, pushes the limits, breaks traditional rules, and yet continues to wow diners left and right with inventive dishes that incorporate ideas from all over (molecular gastronomy, Japan, China, France . . .). This guy's a genius who has a natural knack for creating some really unusual, wacky, yet very tasty dishes.

David Chang giving a lecture at Harvard University

Bryan surprised me a week before our New York trip by telling me he had somehow nabbed a Saturday evening reservation at Ko! Needless to say, I was thrilled.

As you may know, Momofuku Ko has a very strict no-photo policy. As a result, you'll see mostly descriptions from my memory as well as a few drawings. :)

The restaurant itself is tiny, resembling an intimate sushi bar. Twelve diners sit on backless bar stools with clear views of the chefs creating their meal right in front of them. The atmosphere is casual, relaxed, and fun. It's fascinating to watch the action in the kitchen, and it's fun to be in such a cozy environment.

There's really no menu since everyone basically eats the same thing. You inform the server of your dietary restrictions, but other than that, the courses just start coming out. Everyone enjoys the same ten or so courses for the evening.

Momofuku Ko Tasting Menu

Sunchoke white bean soup with maitake mushrooms
The first course was like an amuse. We got tiny shooters of this beautiful, deeply flavorful soup. The mushrooms added a lovely earthiness that worked beautifully with the sunchokes. It was creamy, salty, and a great way to get us excited about the meal that was to come.

Housemade pork rind with togarashi
These crunchy pork rinds were similar to the snacks you've all had. The twist? They were seasoned with the Japanese spice togarashi. Crunchy, flavorful, and very satisfying. Borderline addictive.

Santa Barbara uni, "panna cotta" with apple and bird chilies
Uni, which is already naturally creamy, works great as a panna cotta. David Chang kicks his up with the addition of spicy bird chilies and apples.

New Jersey diver scallops, cucumber snow, radish, jalapeno, avocado
Beautifully fresh, raw scallops were served topped with cool and refreshing cucumber "snow."

Mackerel, kombu, puffed rice over beet puree
This nod to sushi is different from any other "crudo" type course I've had. The beet puree is smeared across the bottom of the plate as a base. We loved the interesting textural interplays between the raw fish, the puffed black rice, and the kombu.

Caviar, egg, potato chips, and sous vide onions

This beautiful egg dish, complete with a side of homemade potato chips, is wonderfully rich and flavorful. The runny egg, cooked a perfect 5 minutes and 10 seconds, has black caviar spilling out of it, resulting in a stunning presentation.

Mustard, horseradish, ricotta cavatalli, fried sauerkraut, beef tongue
Bold, unusual combinations are prevalent in many of the dishes, including this pasta dish, which has pungent horseradish and crispy fried sauerkraut.

Skate with almond milk foam, olives, cauliflower
David Chang thinks one of the worst crimes in food is to under season food.  In this dish the saltiness of the olives and the skate are offset by the sweet almond foam.

Pine nut brittle, shaved fois gras, lychee, reisling gelee
This frozen fois gras course is one of Momofuku Ko's signature dishes and it's simply incredible. We both think it's the best dish they have here. Pine nut brittle, reisling gelee, and lychee chunks are topped with a mountain of fluffy shaved frozen fois gras. As you take each bite, the frozen fois gras melts into a creamy coating that covers all the other elements, bringing together all the crazy flavors and textures. Loved it.



Mouillard duck, turnip with pumpernickel bread and charred mustard greens
So, I did manage to snap one picture before I was told that photos were not allowed. This duck dish was quite nice, though it did not blow me away like some of the earlier ones. The duck was perfectly cooked, the flavors were good, but overall the course was not particularly memorable.

Honey sorbet, solid milk, lemon-thyme foam
Sort of a palate cleanser, this is the first of our two sweet endings to the meal.

Parsnip glazed doughnut, parsnip caramel ice cream
Parsnips are naturally sweet, so they actually work quite well in ice cream. Of course, the caramel is a much stronger flavor, and it definitely dominated the flavors of the dessert. Frankly, I had a hard time tasting the parsnips in the glazed doughnut, even though the dish overall was still quite enjoyable.

At the end of the meal, we asked whether they could take a picture of us in the restaurant. The server was kind enough to oblige, but requested that the background be the blank wall, not the kitchen. He kind of muttered, "they're kind of strict like that."

So, this is us at Momofuku Ko. You can see the door in the background. We were one of the last people to leave (after all, we had a 10PM reservation!), so it's pretty empty since it's well past midnight by this point.


How did you get a reservation?
Reservations at Momofuku Ko are notoriously hard to get, although not impossible. You have to sign up for an account in their system. Exactly one week (or two weeks for lunch) before the day you want to reserve, log into the system at 10AM and click away as fast as possible. Seats disappear within seconds, so you have to be really really fast. Furthermore, it's not reserved until you actually complete your transaction. Bryan lost out on his first try at the last step and he had to go back to the homepage to book another time. By that point, only the 10PM reservation was left.

Weekend reservations are the most difficult to get. If you're willing to go on a weekday, it's somewhat easier. In fact, the last time I went to New York, there was actually availability on a Monday evening for a party of two at 7PM (!!). This was still available just a few days before the dining date. Unfortunately, I had a party of 7 so we ended up going to Marea instead.

Lunch versus Dinner?
Unlike most places, the lunch tasting menu at Momofuku Ko is actually a grander tasting and costs more. Instead of 10 courses over two hours for $125, the lunch tasting is 16 courses over three hours and costs $150.

Final Thoughts
We had a fantastic time at Momofuku Ko. The surroundings are casual and the space is intimate and small. It's fun to sit around this tiny bar and watch every single dish come to life right in front of your eyes. David Chang is unconventional but also naturally a genius when it comes to cooking. His dishes are inventive, very flavorful, and fun to eat. Not every course is mind-blowing, but enough of them are to make the entire experience quite enjoyable.



Other posts in this series
Marea (lunch)
Marea (dinner)


Momofuku Ko
163 1st Ave
New York, NY 10003
Momofuku Ko on Urbanspoon