The Art of Hand Pulled Noodles - Noodle making class in Beijing, China

It's arguably becoming a lost art.

Many of you might know that I'm a bit obsessed with hand-pulled noodles.

OK, I should clarify. My husband is obsessed with eating fresh, handmade noodles. As a result, I became obsessed with figuring out how to obtain them. After an exhaustive search of Boston, we realized that hand-pulled noodles do not exist in Boston.

So I set out to learn how to make them myself. It wasn't easy. I soon learned that the internet is sparse when it comes to information in English for making hand-pulled noodles. Sure, there's some information, but at the end of the day, I think a lot of the information is still hidden in China.

So when I went to Beijing last fall (after having made my noodle making Project Food Blog post), you know what I had to do. I signed up for a hand-pulling noodle class with a Chinese noodle master.


First, we learned that Beijing-style hand-pulled noodles are different than the Shaanxi-style hand-pulled noodles. Shaanxi-style hand-pulled noodles make use of a base (called kansui or jiansui), which is typically a mixture of potassium carbonate and sodium carbonate. The version I had been making at home was based on this method, but used sodium bicarbonate instead (baking soda), since it was easier to obtain in US markets. Beijing noodle dough, on the other hand, is simple, consisting only of high gluten four (te jing fen), water, and salt.

What causes hand-pulled noodle dough to be flexible and stretchy?

1) an increased water to dough ratio
2) the addition of salt
3) continual kneading and twirling of the dough

Because the class was only 2 hours long, the instructor had pre-kneaded the dough for us already. (Yeah, I know, he did the hardest part!) Nevertheless, it was interesting to learn some proper techniques related to dough twisting and pulling.

The idea is to stretch out the dough like a rope, bring the two ends together while twirling, and then stretch the dough again to its original length. Check out the video below to see this in action. You do this over and over and over again until the dough reaches the right consistency. It takes a bit of experience to be able to tell when the dough is the right consistency. A proper dough will be soft, pliable, and can stretch easily without breaking.

Many things can affect the quality of the dough - humidity in the air that day, temperature, gluten percentage in your dough. He told us that on a humid summer day you may only need to twirl for about 10 minutes, whereas in the winter you may need to twirl for 15-20 minutes.

Ideally, you twirl in different directions each time: counterclockwise, then clockwise, etc.

When the dough is finally ready, then you begin pulling. For Dragon's Whiskers, which are super, super thin, you end up pulling the dough close to ten times! That's like 1024 noodles! The noodles become so thin, you really can't boil them. They would fall apart if you tried. Instead, these types of super thin noodles are typically deep fried.

If you want to make noodles for boiling, typically you don't want to stretch them more than 4-5 times!

Despite the fact that I had some experience with making noodles, I was surprised how hard it was when I tried do everything "properly." I guess the lesson is - don't learn bad habits! They are hard to unlearn.

Here's a brief video I made of the class. Below, I've provided the recipe that they gave to us.

If you want to take the class yourself, check out the offerings on their website.

If you have trouble watching the video embedded here, click here to go straight to Youtube

Disclaimer: I have not tried this recipe at home. The only recipe I have validated at home is the one from my first blog post on this topic.

Hand Pulled Noodle Dough

167g high gluten flour (te jing fen)

100g water

1 tsp salt

Combine flour, water, and salt. Knead dough until elastic (possibly up to an hour, or you can try using a stand mixer on speed 4 or a bread machine). Cover the dough with plastic and let it rest at room temperature for at least 15-20 minutes (to relax the gluten). Twist the dough for about 15-20 minutes or until it is nice and stretchy. Pull noodles.

This is part 14 of the China Series detailing my recent trip to Beijing, Xian, and Shanghai. 

Other posts in this series: 

part 1: Wander the Streets of Beijing

part 2: Xian'r Lao Man (handmade dumplings)

part 3: Made in China (Peking duck)

part 4: Noodle Bar (hand pulled noodles)

part 5: Bao Yuan Dumpling (handmade dumplings)

part 6: Da Dong (Peking duck)

part 7: Jia Jia Tang Bao (Soup dumplings / xiao long bao)

part 8: Yang's Fry Dumpling (Pan fried steamed buns / shen jian bao)

part 9: Din Tai Fung (dumplings)

part 10: Eating At the World Expo

part 11: Crystal Jade (Dim Sum)

part 12: Jiu Men Xiao Chi (Nine Gates Snack Street) - the best Street Snacks in Beijing

part 13: Noodle Loft (Mian Ku)

China: Lost in Translation

Happy Birthday Bryan: an Ode to Noodles and Ducks
How to make hand-pulled noodles, la mian, shou la mian, 

"Jiu Men Xiao Chi" {Nine Gates Snack Street} - The best of Beijing Street Food

Sweet potato chips - about $1.30 USD for a huge bag

I have this thing for snacks.

I've never been a "three big meals" sort of person. If it were up to me, I would just snack my way through the day, never really sitting down for a proper meal. My favorite ways to enjoy an actual meal is in the style of dim sum or tapas, where I get to sample many tiny bites of a wide variety of things.

shao bing - sesame layered biscuit - about 10 cents each

As you may know, I've been doing this extensive series on China. I actually visited China twice this past fall. The first trip was a vacation that Bryan and I had planned months ago. We did all the touristy things - visited the Great Wall, saw the Terra Cotta Soldiers in Xi'An, and explored Shanghai and the World Expo.

The second trip was completely unexpected. Bryan found out last minute that he needed to go to China and Japan for business. Since I had several vacation days left to spare, I decided to come along with him.

Going on a trip where one person needs to work most of the time is really really different from a normal vacation. I found myself alone most days (and certain nights!). In some ways it's a bit lonelier, but in other ways, it's rather freeing as well.

I took these opportunities to do something I love that Bryan always hates - skipping meals in lieu of snacks!

Opened in 2006, "Jiu Men Xiao Chi" is named after the nine gates surrounding old Beijing in the Forbidden City. It's a building that houses many of the most famous street vendors in Beijing. Many of these vendors are actually descendants of imperial chefs and have been making their signature snacks for generations.

For decades, dozens of these vendors sold their famous snacks at Menkuang Hutong, an old alleyway right outside of Qian Men. In 2006 the area was demolished to make way for shiny new high-rises in anticipation of the 2008 Olympics.

There was a huge outcry as people responded in anger at the loss of such storied favorites. Fortunately, the  government invited eleven of the most famous vendors to move to a new indoor enclosed area built to mimic the original outdoor alley next to Qian Men.

Though "Jiu Men" does not have quite the same atmosphere as the original street market, many of the vendors are still the same and, more importantly, the food is still the same.

I spent an entire afternoon in Hou Hai, the touristy lakeside area where this foodstall restaurant now resides. I had tons of fun ordering various different snacks. I only wish I were with more people so I could have tried more things. Nevertheless, here are a few of the classic Beijing Street snacks that I tried.

Candied Sweet Potato Chips

These candied chips are sweet, sticky, and more chewy than crunchy. They are pretty good, though I prefer the simple crunchy salted ones (pictured up top) that I picked up from another street vendor a few days later.


Dou Zhi - fermented mung bean juice

It doesn't sound appetizing; it sure doesn't smell appetizing; and  . . . it tastes awful! Nevertheless, Beijingers slurp up this sour watery soup that sort of reminds me of dishwater that's gone bad. They think it's cleansing and good for your body, full of probiotics and fermented goodness, perhaps? It boggles my mind, but as a fearless and adventurous food enthusiast, I had to try it.

Muslim Snacks

In the original area around Qian Men, there was a specific Muslim section where Muslim type snacks were sold. Inside Jiu Men, they have converted a special section into the old Muslim "street". There is even a sign warning you not to bring meat into the special area.

I tried a bunch of Muslim snacks, which were pretty good. The fried rolled up swirls (above) tasted sort of like egg rolls. Light, crispy, with just a hint of some Indian spices.

More Muslim Snacks

I mostly just pointed at snacks I wanted to try, since my Chinese reading skills are quite elementary. Most of the snacks were fried, like the doughnut-like fried ring, which I think I was supposed to dip into the fermented mung bean water above, sort of like a twisted version of you tiao (fried cruellers) and dou jiang (soy milk). The other circular pretzel-like snack was sugary and sort of gummy and chewy. All of the snacks were reasonably tasty, though I did not love any one to order again.

One of my favorite savory items was this stir-fried mung bean jelly cake. It was a bit greasy, but I just loved the addictive flavors of the spicy hot sauce she used in the dish (maybe there was some MSG in there?). The dish was satisfyingly hot, savory, and spicy. The little bean sprouts throughout gave just the right amount of crunch to the dish. Loved it. 

Stir-fried Mung Bean Jelly with Bean Sprouts

Don't Forget Dessert!

Nai lao - rice wine yogurt with red bean

Nai lao is a light and delicate milk-based yogurt that hails from imperial times. In fact, Wei Hongchen introduced this dessert to the general public in 1888, using the secret nai lao recipe he had obtained from the Qing imperial kitchen.

I really love this stuff. It's much lighter and more delicate than a traditional American custard. In fact, it's just made with just rice wine, milk, and sugar. There's no eggs. Instead, all you taste is the pure essence of milk, with just a hint of the sweetness. The texture is extremely delicate, like a very unstable custard that could break at any moment.

Final Thoughts
Overall, I had tons of fun exploring my way around Jiu Men Xiao Chi. I would definitely recommend checking this place out if you want to experience some traditional Beijing snacks! It's pretty clean, and the food is very fresh due to the popularity of the place. If you are adventurous, you can even try some of the more interesting dishes they have, such as Feng's boiled beef stomach or Chen's boiled pork intestines and lungs.

But even if you're a bit squeamish, there are plenty of delicious "normal" snacks to try! I would highly recommend ordering the stir fried mung bean jelly cakes (if you can take spicy), try a few random snacks just by pointing to what looks good, and end with a light and creamy cup of nai lao.

Who needs a fancy sit-down meal when you can have such good food right off the "street"?

;)

The Details
You don't pay directly with cash. Instead, you purchase a card at the front entrance on which you put money (fully refundable). I would recommend spending around 100 RMB ($15 USD) if you don't want to run out of money. You are required to keep a 10 RMB minimum on the card, otherwise, no one will accept your card. I  think I ended up spending around 60-70 RMB total - by far not the cheapest prices in China, but still quite reasonable by American standards.

I took a taxi here (since I didn't know how to get here by myself), but I ended up finding a subway nearby that took me home. The subway is reasonably close by and much cheaper (subway rides typically cost around 2 RMB a ride, about 30 cents).

Usually Jiu Men is packed and lines can get long. However, I beat the crowds by showing up around 3PM (Yes, I realize the signs say they are not open at this time, but I swear, that is when I went). I had the whole place to myself, with the vendors actually hawking at me, trying to get me to buy their foods.

1 Xiaoyou Hutong, north side of Houhai (next to Former Residence of Soong Ching Ling)
Xicheng District
Opening hours: 10:30 am-1:30 pm, 5 pm-9 pm.
Tel: 010-64025858

This is part 12 of the China Series detailing my recent trip to Beijing, Xian, and Shanghai. 

Other posts in this series: 

part 1: Wander the Streets of Beijing

part 2: Xian'r Lao Man (handmade dumplings)

part 3: Made in China (Peking duck)

part 4: Noodle Bar (hand pulled noodles)

part 5: Bao Yuan Dumpling (handmade dumplings)

part 6: Da Dong (Peking duck)

part 7: Jia Jia Tang Bao (Soup dumplings / xiao long bao)

part 8: Yang's Fry Dumpling (Pan fried steamed buns / shen jian bao)

part 9: Din Tai Fung (dumplings)

part 10: Eating At the World Expo
part 11: Crystal Jade (Dim Sum)

China: Lost in Translation

Happy Birthday Bryan: an Ode to Noodles and Ducks

Da Dong {Beiing, China}

How often do you get to eat some of the best Peking duck in the world four times in one week?

I personally don't love Peking duck (if you haven't picked up by now, I'm not a huge meat eater), but it's one of Bryan's favorite foods, so while we were in the mecca of Peking Duck Land, it seemed imperative that we at least check out the best places.

There are several of those.

We only had a week in Beijing.

So guess what? We ended up eating Peking duck almost every night.

I already described in a previous post Bryan's favorite Peking duck restaurant in China. Although I agree that Made In China has a beautiful ambiance, excellent duck, and superb service, I personally enjoyed my experience at Da Dong the most.

Unlike Made In China, which is beautiful, high-class, and quite westernized in many ways (it IS in the Grand Hyatt Hotel after all), Da Dong feels like the authentic Asian deal. It's bright, loud, and the service is fast. The space is still very nice, but you don't feel like you have to step lightly, use low voices, or keep your elbows off the table. For me, that meant I felt more comfortable in my casual outfit (Domo!) and much more at ease in general.

The menu itself is HUGE (literally, look at the picture!) and is filled with mouthwatering photos of TONS of dishes. Even though their duck is very famous, they actually have a diverse menu full of many interesting dishes. All the dishes are plated beautifully, and the menu is truly a delight just to peruse. Thankfully, it's written in English too!

Of course we ordered a Peking duck. Their ducks are unique in that they are super lean. Unlike most Peking duck, which is fatty, Da Dong's signature dish is the "Extra-lean Peking Duck." The duck is refreshingly flavorful and crisp yet not fatty at all.

Bryan still preferred the duck at Made In China, which was a bit juicer (ha ha, probably due to extra fat?). However, the duck here is still VERY GOOD and definitely a joy to eat.

What's also cool is that their servers teach you how to eat Peking Duck if you've never had it before. For example, in Beijing you are supposed to dip the skin in sugar and eat it plain. No wrappers, no sauce. You then make little "rolls" with the wrappers using duck meat from either the breast or the leg. Add hoisin sauce, scallions, cucumbers, or whatever you fancy. There are a number of different types of wrappers you can make. For example, you can also use the mashed garlic, pickled vegetables, or any other combination of the condiments that they bring you.

Here's Bryan willing to get his hands dirty to dig into his favorite food. [Bryan usually HATES getting his hands dirty and won't even eat oranges if he has to peel them.]

They also gave us these fun little sesame puffs. The puffs were completely empty inside so you could fill them with some duck and veggies to make a little sandwich.

As I mentioned earlier, Da Dong has an amazing selection of other types of food, which is actually the main reason I like Da Dong more than the other Peking Duck places we tried. As I flipped through the menu I wanted to order everything but knew I couldn't. Next to me I saw a table of 10 who had ordered up a storm. I was so jealous!!

We ordered just a few extra dishes. Each dish is presented beautifully and is surprisingly really reasonably-priced. I think all of our side dishes were well under $10 US each.  Above, a beautiful braised eggplant.

Fun little tofu starters. The yellow one is more of a tofu custard with a spicy/savory meat sauce inside. The white one is traditional silken soft tofu with a savory black sauce inside (seaweed maybe? I can't remember). Both were absolutely delicious.

Of course, you end with a bowl of delicious, creamy duck soup.

I was already super pleased with this place when they brought out the free desserts!

I almost cracked up at the over-the-top presentation. You can't really tell from the picture, but there's DRY ICE below the grapes. As they bring you your plate, white wisps of gas billow out, surrounding the grapes in this sort of unreal glow.

And it's STILL not over! Next came the free sweet corn ice cream. I know this may sound gross to some of you, but it was FANTASTIC! I love the sweet creamy taste of corn already and I love ice cream, so it was inevitable that I would totally love this dessert. I ate both mine and Bryan's, heh heh.

Overall, my total experience at Da Dong was super fun and relaxed. Not only is the Peking duck excellent, the entire experience is fun. From the front row "show" of the duck carving to the beautifully presented dishes and the wacky desserts at the end, I just had a great time there.

I think I also felt relaxed because the prices are so reasonable. True, the duck costs about the same as the duck at Made In China (around 200RMB a duck, or $30 US). However, the rest of the dishes were really reasonable, and you get so many random freebies it's actually an excellent value.

Definitely check this place out if you have time while you're in Beijing. It was one of my favorite restaurants there, and I would happily go back with a large crowd to sample all the other dishes if I had a chance. I believe they have several locations throughout Beijing. We went to the one in Chaoyang, which was near our hotel.

This is part 6 of the China Series detailing my recent trip to Beijing, Xian, and Shanghai. 
Other posts in this series: 
part 1: Wander the Streets of Beijing
part 2: Xian'r Lao Man (Dumplings)
part 3: Made in China {Peking Duck}
part 4: Noodle Bar
part 5: Bao Yuan Dumpling
China: Lost in Translation
Happy Birthday Bryan: an Ode to Noodles and Ducks

Noodle Bar {Beijing, China}

This is part 4 of the China Series detailing my recent trip to Beijing, Xian, and Shanghai. Other posts in this series include part 1: Wander the Streets of Beijing, part 2: Xian'r Lao Man (Dumplings), part 3: Made in China {Peking Duck}, and some other preview posts: China: Lost in Translation, and Happy Birthday Bryan: an Ode to Noodles and Ducks.

Welcome to Noodle Bar, a cozy, authentic, and absolutely charming hand-pulled noodle bar in Beijing.

I've realized I love true noodle bars. You know, the kind where the entire restaurant is just one circular bar with a bunch of barstools surrounding the bar. Everyone gets front row seats to the awesome hand-pulling noodle action. It's super fun to watch your noodle dough get pounded, bounced, and then pulled right in front of your eyes. Plus, you get to interact with the chefs a lot more in this setting (ha ha, assuming you are proficient in the language!). It's intimate, relaxing, and really enjoyable.

In view of my current entry in Round 7 of Project Food Blog (how to make hand-pulled noodles), I thought this post would be the perfect segue back into the China series.


Noodle Bar is tucked away behind an unassuming door inside of a courtyard of the 1949 Hidden City Complex. ("Hidden" indeed - this place is difficult to find). Thankfully, directions I found on this site were helpful enough to help me find the place. Yes, you really do walk through an art gallery before entering the courtyard. 

The place is tiny - there probably aren't more than 15 seats in the entire place. Thankfully, the menu is written in both Chinese and English. To order, you simply check off items on a piece of paper indicating which items you wish to order.

It's hard to choose between all the mouthwatering small eats (e.g., various pickled vegetables, soy braised eggs). We settled upon the roasted pork belly (see picture at top of the page), which was succulent, juicy, and crispy all at the same time - in short, it was fantastic. We also got the pickled pumpkin, which was interesting to try, but not something we would get again.

And of course, there are the noodles. The Noodles! The noodles were pulled with expert precision and ease. Look at how evenly thick they are! The menu choices are simple - you choose thick or thin noodles, and then you choose beef brisket, tendon, or tripe (or a combination of the above).

I love thick pieces of tendon, so I was thrilled that I had the option of ordering tendon only. I love tendon!

All in all, this is an excellent place to see and experience hand-pulled noodles in Beijing firsthand. It's a tad pricier than the hand-pulled noodles you'd find on the street ($5 USD versus around $1-2 USD on the street). However, if you like enjoying your noodles in a slightly nicer environment OR you like having the ability to use your credit card OR you want to rest assured that you won't have stomach problems later on, then this just might be the perfect place for you.

:)

Noodle Bar
1949 - The Hidden City
Courtyard 4, Gong Ti Bei Lu
Chaoyang District